Full article about Abrunhosa-a-Velha: schist, eucalyptus & 07:43 train
Ride the 1984 train to a slate-roofed spa village where lamb stews in wine
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The 07:43 from Celorico still clatters over the same riveted rails it did in 1984. It pauses at Gouveia-Inferior, a single strip of asphalt where Abrunhosa-a-Velha catches its breath. Five kilometres of corkscrew tarmac then funnel you up to the village; no espresso stop en route, only sun-bleached schist walls and the smell of eucalyptus.
The waters nobody drinks
Beside the track, the 1927 hydrotherapy hospital has been reborn as Hotel Rural Mira Serra: 22 slate-roofed rooms, a heated pool, half-board €95. The adjoining chapel unlocks only for Sunday’s 11 o’clock open-air mass; wear closed shoes—the nave is still compacted earth.
What to eat
Terra da Estrela, the only public dining room on the N17, serves lunch from noon:
- Chanfana de borrego (lamb braised in red wine) – €12
- Queijo Serra DOP – €14/kg
- House Dão branco – €4
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; the grill is out by 15:00 sharp.
Where to sleep
Beyond Mira Serra, Booking lists two two-bedroom cottages (€65-80). Otherwise, Mangualde lies 18 km south; roadworks add 30 min until 2025.
Essentials
Nearest pharmacy: Gouveia, 6 km. Fuel: Mangualde, southbound. ATM: station platform—MB cards only, no cash withdrawals.
Trains
Beira Alta line: two daily to Porto (2 h 45 min), three to Coimbra (1 h 30 min). The platform machine is broken half the time; buy online for weekends. Last southbound service: 18:07. Miss it and a taxi to Mangualde is €40.